We compare Anti Aging products

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Vitamins in skin care products and how they can benefit the skin

"As a start, consumers need to take a step back from the alphabet soup of vitamins found in skin care products and focus on what they want to accomplish – whether it’s improving facial wrinkles or reducing inflammation from acne," explained dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, clinical associate professor of dermatology at Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, N.C. "Then they need to understand what vitamins work for what skin conditions and choose skin care products and anti aging products accordingly."

Vitamin A, and its precursor beta-carotene, are found in yellow, orange, and green vegetables, egg yolks, liver, butter, and fish oils. It is one of a family of natural and synthetic related derivatives collectively known as retinoids – the primary prescription agent used for anti-aging purposes in anti aging products.

"The wide use of retinoids today in the reversal and prevention of photoaging (anti aging products) was due to the research of a dermatologist who discovered that topical tretinoin improved wrinkling, brown spots, roughness and precancerous actinic keratoses," said Dr. Draelos.

Another vitamin that has become increasingly popular as an added ingredient in skin care products and anti aging products is vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid. Found in vegetables and citrus fruits, vitamin C acts as an antioxidant and is considered vital in wound healing because it aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns. So, naturally, many skin care products have this added now.

Vitamin E, which is found naturally in vegetables, oils, nuts, seeds, whole wheat flour, and some meats and dairy products, is another antioxidant that may have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. When applied topically, vitamin E has been thought to improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provide modest photoprotection. Is it good for anti aging products?

"A great deal of research is being conducted to substantiate the claims of vitamin E," said Dr. Draelos. "In the future, we’re likely to see vitamin E preparations redesigned to enhance penetration into the skin. Certainly, it is an important vitamin for the skin and is included as an ingredient in many skin care products for its healing properties."

Choosing the right skin care product

One vitamin that is commonly used in hair care products for its ability to both hold and attract water is panthenol, the alcohol form of vitamin B5. When used topically in shampoos, hair sprays, and hair styling aids, panthenol increases the water content of the hair shaft, which leads to increased elasticity. Since it is essential for hair keratin and can actually penetrate the hair shaft through voids where the cuticle has been damaged, panthenol works well in products that need to be rinsed off. As a result, the hair has more manageability, better shine, less static electricity, and improved softness. This vitamin is now adapted for anti aging productss for use on the skin.

One newer topical vitamin that shows promise as an over-the-counter ingredient to be explored in anti-aging products is niacinamide, a derivative of niacin – one component of the anti aging products with B vitamin complex.

"Niacinamide is one of the vitamins that I think we’ll hear more and more about in skin care products in the coming years. Already, topical 4% niacinamide has been shown to be beneficial in the treatment of papular and pustular acne in a 4% gel, as well as the improvement of skin cancer and its anti-tumor characteristics," added Dr. Draelos.

Future research in the effects of vitamins and skin care products on the skin in anti aging products will emphasize the importance of careful formulation and clinical testing as the key to developing useful topical vitamin preparations for the skin.

The healthy glow from a suntan today can come back to haunt you tomorrow. Photoaging, the premature wrinkling and damage done to the skin by the sun, affects millions of Americans and is the impetus behind the search for new ways to recreate and retain a youthful appearance.

Anti Aging Treatments

Wilma Bergfeld, MD, Professor, Dermatology and Pathology, The Cleveland Clinic, Cleveland, Ohio, discussed the surgical, medical, anti aging treatments, and cosmetic treatments of photoaging: "Today, patients are more sensitive to their appearance as they age. They also have a greater understanding of the types of anti aging treatments available for aging skin," said Dr. Bergfeld. "Dermatologists can create a customized treatment plan of anti aging treatments that will address a patient’s specific concerns and optimize the benefits for their skin."

Natural aging is commonly characterized by a thinning of the skin and a deepening of the normal facial expression lines. As the skin ages, it becomes more fragile and crinkles (thin fine wrinkles) appear. Unlike natural aging, photoaging is distinguished by coarse wrinkles, dry and rough skin, abundant freckling, loss of firmness and skin discoloration. Habitual tanning or unprotected outdoor activity severely damages the elastic fibers below the surface of the skin, causing it to appear tight and leathery. At the same time, the skin loses its ability to bounce back from stretching and deep, dry wrinkles develop.

"The best prevention for photoaging is a comprehensive sun safety program that includes the use of sunscreens, wearing protective clothing and hats, and seeking shade whenever possible," said Dr. Bergfeld. "However, there are also several medical and surgical treatments that can help individuals turn back the hands of time."

Cosmetic anti aging treatments

Currently, the only antiaging prescription topical treatment for skin manifestations of photoaging is tretinoin emollient cream. Tretinoin has been shown to reduce the fine wrinkles, splotchy pigmentation and skin roughness associated with chronic sun exposure. Other over-the-counter cosmetic anti aging treatments have begun including retinol or anti-oxidants in their ingredients, which also reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Other antiaging treatments

In addition, the last decade has seen a marked increase in the cosmetic industry’s use of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) in anti aging treatments. Of these naturally occurring compounds derived from fruit and dairy products, glycolic and lactic acids are the most common. "Although there have been limited studies regarding AHA’s, dermatologists and patients have been impressed with the impact these agents have on photoaging," said Dr. Bergfeld. "The use of cosmetics or anti aging treatments with retinoids or AHA’s, combined with gentle skin cleansing, a broad spectrum sunscreen and a retinoid treatment at night, can mildly improve skin damaged by photoaging."

Surgical Skin Rejuvenation

Patients are more often combining anti aging treatments with non-invasive surgical techniques to reverse the signs of aging. Many patients, who want the results of facial rejuvenation without extended recovery time, are taking advantage of new "lunch-time" techniques including acid peels, microdermabrasion, and superficial laser peels. Facial resurfacing procedures, such as these, physically remove the upper layer of the skin and new, younger-looking skin replaces damaged skin, reducing wrinkles and fading pigment spots. "Though these techniques may have less recovery time, often allowing patients to go back to work immediately, the results are not as long-lasting," said Dr. Bergfeld.

There are also several soft tissue augmentation which can smooth out wrinkles making them less noticeable. One of the most popular forms of this anti aging treatments is the use of botulinum toxin (botox), which when injected into frown lines, crows feet or other wrinkles, paralyzes the muscle creating those lines. Not only does botulinum toxin (botox) dramatically soften existing wrinkles, it decreases the patient’s ability to frown or squint which prevents additional damage.

Botox

Botulinum toxin (botox) is a purified form of one of the most potent toxins in the world. In high doses, botox it can cause the clinical disease botulism. However, when carefully injected by dermatologists and dermatologic surgeons in very low doses, botulinum toxin (botox) is a modern tool that can reduce the signs of aging. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) urges patients to select a qualified physician, such as a dermatologist, when considering this or any cosmetic procedure.

"A casual social activity for the purpose of administering botulinum toxin (botox), such as a ‘Botox® Party,’ is an inappropriate and a potentially dangerous setting for performing medical procedures of any kind," said Fred F. Castrow II, MD, President of the American Academy of Dermatology. "Adding alcohol to the mix is a bad idea for a number of reasons, especially since bruising can be intensified."

"As with any medical procedure, the possibility of adverse effects occurring from a botulinum toxin injection is always a possibility. Therefore, the American Academy of Dermatology strongly believes that patient safety comes first and should not be taken lightly under any circumstance." Because this is a quick method to treat wrinkles with no downtime, many patients are compromising their safety by having this medical procedure performed in an inappropriate setting, often by untrained antiaging medical professionals.

"While botulinum toxin (botox) has proven to be an effective treatment for wrinkles and other medical conditions, it is only one of the many safe and effective procedures for treating aging skin," said Dr. Castrow. "We encourage all patients to consult with their dermatologist to determine which botox treatment is best for them. A well-informed patient and a skilled dermatologist are always the best prescription for a successful antiaging outcome."

Laser skin resurfacing is also a popular option for antiaging treatment. These high energy lasers work by emitting a beam of light that is absorbed by the water in the skin cells. CO2 lasers continue to be extremely effective for treating patients with deep wrinkles and severe sun damage. Erbium or combination lasers provide a more superficial treatment of wrinkles, sundamage or irregular pigmentation.

"Lasers require a slightly longer healing time with minimal patient discomfort and are effective for facial rejuvenation," said Dr. Bergfeld. "They offer a relatively painless antiaging procedure and improved results over traditional cosmetic surgery."

Dr. Bergfeld added, "With so many options for the treatment of photoaging, dermatologists and patients can try a combination of medical, surgical and cosmetic antiaging treatments until they create the desired result."